To be honest I can't afford any of them for now but feel extremely curious to read some comparison opinions, if anybody have such experience.
There was a thread close to the subject but not exactly, anyway just for the record: http://www.forum-pianoteq.com/viewtopic.php?id=3042
I am a VPC user myself and the VPC-1 is indeed an excellent piano controller. I think the Lachnit might be even better, but of course for more than twice the money it has to be. To use a car analogy: the VPC is the Audi, the Lachnit is the Porsche.
Unfortunately both keyboards use the Fatar VFP3-D, which is the one aspect of the VPC I am not completely happy with. Compared to the VPC itself, the pedal unit is sub-standard, and compared to the Lachnit, even more so. I works, but it has an unfortunate tendency of quickly showing signs of potentiometer wear, which is very annoying to say the least.
I see, cheap technologies everywhere. There are ways to have an optical potentiometers for the controllers as some Dj mixers have - the lifetime of such is much longer. And precision sure also better.
I downloaded the Lachnit 22 manual. I am confused why they make no mention of "Half pedalling" or "continuous sustain" or similar. It does mention "expression" which can be calibrated but no mention whether this can be re-assigned.
No mention of relative key weighting or dimensions of keys.
For me it works out a x2.5 the cost of a VPC-1
Ian
Quote from their website http://www.flkeys.at/TechEng.html:
Up to 4 continuous pedals.
Continuous On/off possible for pedal switches.
MK2 recognizes polarity of standard MIDI CC pedals automatically. 2-10K Ohms for MIDI CC controllers like expression pedals.
Inversion of pedal polarity without restart possible.
Damper pedal input works with continuous half damper pedals.
Stereo 1/4" jack for dual pedal and stereo 1/4" jack for CC-pedal.
Calibration of custom pedals on all 4 pedal inputs possible.
I am a VPC user myself and the VPC-1 is indeed an excellent piano controller. I think the Lachnit might be even better, but of course for more than twice the money it has to be. To use a car analogy: the VPC is the Audi, the Lachnit is the Porsche.
Unfortunately both keyboards use the Fatar VFP3-D, which is the one aspect of the VPC I am not completely happy with. Compared to the VPC itself, the pedal unit is sub-standard, and compared to the Lachnit, even more so. I works, but it has an unfortunate tendency of quickly showing signs of potentiometer wear, which is very annoying to say the least.
I just got a VPC-1 a couple days ago used and a bit blemished (a couple bangs and minor scratches though works perfect) but I got it inexpensively.
I am having trouble now with the pedal unit floating over my carpet all over the place. Tried tape. Doubling tape. Next I try carpet seaming tape but I have an idea since it is not all the way flat flush on the bottom with 1/8 perimeter inset - to make a small plywood same-size piece that the small, 4 rectangle legs drop in with notches that I can carpet tape under the wood piece and drop the unit in. I know now why some manufacturers have that wide board piece for 3 pedals that stretch across their proprietary wood stand and fastened. I did not have this problem with my similar size, previous Roland 3 pedal piece that was midi
Phil
I had that same problem with the VPC1 pedal unit. But it's easily solved. Just get a standard solid red clay brick and place it behind the pedal unit, flush with the edge. You can use 2 bricks but be sure not to let the electrical cord get pinned by the brick. Have had no problems with the pedal unit "traveling" Hope that works for you, too.
I had that same problem with the VPC1 pedal unit. But it's easily solved. Just get a standard solid red clay brick and place it behind the pedal unit, flush with the edge. You can use 2 bricks but be sure not to let the electrical cord get pinned by the brick. Have had no problems with the pedal unit "traveling" Hope that works for you, too.
You have of course heard the camel and two bricks joke
Ian
algorhythms wrote:I had that same problem with the VPC1 pedal unit. But it's easily solved. Just get a standard solid red clay brick and place it behind the pedal unit, flush with the edge. You can use 2 bricks but be sure not to let the electrical cord get pinned by the brick. Have had no problems with the pedal unit "traveling" Hope that works for you, too.
You have of course heard the camel and two bricks joke
Ian
" only if you get your thumb in the way"
I got this faulty pot problem already 1 week after buying the VPC-1.
I guess there is a standard carbon pot inside; I will try to replace it with a pot that has conductive plastic, which I also use in my organ swell pedals. These have over 1 million turns lifetime.
And of course also the problem of the gliding pedal unit.
As the cabling comes out at the backside, one has to be careful indeed for placing something behind the unit.
Perhaps making a dedicated stand like Phil suggests, is a better idea.
What is also annoying: this power on/off button on top. As I have the unit placed beneath a desk, very time I have to pull it a bit towards me to actuate the switch, which is a totally superfluous switch, as the whole unit consumes only about 1 watt from USB. And when you have powered down your USB hub, next time you need to actuate this switch again. I am going to find out if I can short it out internally.
Extra annoying: the software. Unelss I missed something..........Every time when powering up the computer, I have to run this software again and point it towards my velocity curve, as it seems im possible to assign it to one of the five presets........
Does anyone has a solution for this?? Also changes in pedal-CC,s are not saved.
BUT: it plays wonderful!
And of course also the problem of the gliding pedal unit. As the cabling comes out at the backside, one has to be careful indeed for placing something behind the unit. making a dedicated stand like Phil suggests, is a better idea.
(regarding the 3 pedal unit gliding about)
Edited: I wrote here previously that I used foam to stop the 3-pedal unit from gliding all over the place. Did not last the foam disintegrated eventually. My permanent fix was a spring rod from Home Depot 5 dollars modified in size. I took a pic before I will paint it black.
http://hammondeer.tripod.com/Rod.jpg
Phil
Extra annoying: the software. Unelss I missed something..........Every time when powering up the computer, I have to run this software again and point it towards my velocity curve, as it seems im possible to assign it to one of the five presets........
Does anyone has a solution for this??
I believe the changes should be stored. May I ask you to describe the procedure you are following in the editor?
For example, if I select memory 3 (clicking the '3' at the bottom of the editor window), then click a touch curve, this curve will be assigned to memory 3. Similarly, if I make any adjustments to the key velocity offsets or MIDI settings, these should also be automatically stored to memory 3.
I believe settings are stored to the VPC1 when the power is turned off via the power button.
Once your preferred settings are stored, it should not be necessary to use the editor again.
Kind regards,
James
x
Thanks a lot for your reply, James! I slect a preset ( f.i. with the on/off switch and the black keys) and i can confrim that the editor synchronises as the preset display moves.
Then I select a different vel curve ( one of the fixed presets f.i.), and I also make a change in the CC-value sent by one of the pedals.
Then there is NO save possibility or so; it seems that these changes are stored on the fly inside the VPC.
I switch off the VPC by de-powering the USB hub. Then I switch on again, and all presets default to their initial states......
Could it be that my VPC isdefektive?? If so, I should contact Kawai???
Thanks for your attention!
Geert
Aaahhh...... I found the solution. Becasue normally my VPC is only sticking out under my desk with the piano keys, I have the habit of NOT switching it off via the ON/OFF button.........I just cut the power of USB hub!!
As soon as I switch off using this button, the changes ARE saved!!!
Thanks, James......
Greetings form the Netherlands,
Geert
geert wrote:And of course also the problem of the gliding pedal unit. As the cabling comes out at the backside, one has to be careful indeed for placing something behind the unit. making a dedicated stand like Phil suggests, is a better idea.
(regarding the 3 pedal unit gliding about)
Edited: I wrote here previously that I used foam to stop the 3-pedal unit from gliding all over the place. Did not last the foam disintegrated eventually. My permanent fix was a spring rod from Home Depot 5 dollars modified in size. I took a pic before I will paint it black.
http://hammondeer.tripod.com/Rod.jpg
Just wanted to correct some bad information I put up here about using the foam for stopping the 3-pedal gliding all over the place. (Others have other solutions) I found a spring rod to work better. I corrected my original post too.
After painted black.
http://hammondeer.tripod.com/Rod2.jpg
Phil
Aaahhh...... I found the solution. Becasue normally my VPC is only sticking out under my desk with the piano keys, I have the habit of NOT switching it off via the ON/OFF button.........I just cut the power of USB hub!!
As soon as I switch off using this button, the changes ARE saved!!!
Thanks, James......
Greetings form the Netherlands,
Geert
Yes, turning off the power at the VPC1's power button is the crucial part.
It's a little awkward, but I think once users understand this operation it will make sense.
Happy to help.
Cheers,
James
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