Topic: Step-by-step: Modifying a Preset to match a piano - Steinway B to F

This afternoon, as a learning exercise, I spent several hours modifying the Model B "Player" preset so that it would sound as close as I could get it to my Model F upright piano. I learned several things about creating presence, airiness, out-of-tune-ness, and more.

Here is the location where I posted the preset:

http://www.forum-pianoteq.com/file/4qd0a9ku

Here is a short video of my playing both the real piano and the preset back and forth using my CME X-key 37, recorded via my Samsung Note 5:

https://goo.gl/photos/DGyEcmoo34Buvv8T9

… And here is my story:

I bought a CME X-key 37 as a practice keyboard to take with me on trips. It is an excellent gadget, as it has real-width keys that have full MIDI 128 sensitivity to them. It's a bit clacky, as you'll hear in the video, but it sounds much worse in the video than it does in real life. Their software allows you to set up velocity curves for their keyboard, and the touch that you get out of it is nothing short of incredible for having a bunch of chiclet-style keys. They have buttons on the keyboard to move the octaves up and down so you can simulate the full treble and the full bass, as well as a key for the sustain pedal. The curious thing is that since my piano's keyboard (using the QRS piano scan underneath it to generate a MIDI output) is fairly soft, I had to not only create a matching velocity curve in Pianoteq, but I had to employee a curve to first make the CME X-key soft to match the actual piano, so I could build a Pianoteq preset that would be appropriate to use on both the acoustic piano and CME X-key (I guess this is something like the expression "two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left").

I've previously posted here about speaker position and orientation. That has not changed, with two monitor speakers at either side of my keyboard/piano facing upwards and two small ones just behind them facing me to augment my treble. I am very happy with that set-up – for reasons I do not understand, the vertically-pointing speakers provide better stereo imaging of the real piano then do the ones facing me (as I have tried just having the bigger speakers facing me, and I did not like it). One of the interesting things was that just having the microphones as set in the Model B preset essentially over the keyboard gave "too accurate" soundfield for the keyboard in front of me. This also was not as I expected, and I ended up defeating it and broadening the sound in several ways, while I reduced the stereo width because the speakers I have on either side of the keyboard make the piano sound too wide if I use the standard 1.0 width.

Here are the changes that I made to get the keys to match (in other words, when I play the high treble or the low bass on the synthetic piano, it sounds as it sounds are coming from the same location as on a real piano):

0) I moved the microphones backwards just a wee bit so that the tips of the microphones touch the front edge of the keyboard – this made a very slight change to the character of the sound, as well as the location of the sound, and made it more realistic. This may vary a bit depending upon where your speakers are placed as to what you hear from the speakers and how your brain interprets it.

1) I reduced the stereo width to 0.40 – This gave an accurate interpretation of playing keys on a real piano and having them sound the same on the synthetic piano.

2) Curiously, and perhaps because I have an upright piano with a solid wood panel in front of me and I left the cover closed, the sound from the real piano is a bit more nebulous than the sound out of the Pianoteq preset. Therefore, I turned on microphones number four and number five in the microphone set that came with the Model B Player preset. I ended up modifying it slightly, reducing their volume to -15 for each microphone in each channel, and using 1 ms delay for each as well. I also learned, annoyingly, that if you don't hit the return key each time you change a value in these fields, it does not remember what you typed when you click on the next field with the mouse.

3) With things a bit improved, but still a bit too precise, I played around with a bunch of the Delay settings – more about this in the next paragraph.  Overall, these changes matched my real piano soundfield with my speaker set-up extremely well, better than any that I have used before.

Delay versus Reverb – I have never been quite sure how to think of delay versus reverb. Currently, for an acoustic instrument, I am thinking that delay represents reflected sound within the case of the instrument while reverb represents reflected sound from the room around the instrument. Since I am in a real room, and am not trying to pretend that I am in a concert hall or cathedral, I left the reverb turned off so that my room provides its own realistic reverb. The delay, on the other hand, seems quite good to simulate the sound bouncing a bit within the case of the piano from the broad soundboard before it exits to my ears. I ended up using a fairly short delay, 20 ms, as any more, and certainly more than 50 ms, sounded too much like an echo to me. I played with the mix from 0 to 100, and used 25%, as more sounded too round and too soft, and less was not enough of an effect. Since my piano has quite a bit of resonance to it, I added a bit of feedback, just 10%, which broadened the sound after the notes are struck to match how they sound on my piano. As for tone, I do not have a good feel for where this should be set. I ended up using -0.5, only because the far right was way too tinny and the far left was not very helpful. I would be interested to hear how other people adjust the settings in the Delay function to add realism and airiness (although I am sure that it is good for adding weird effects as well).

Soundboard modifications – I ended up sliding the impedance to the right, the cut-off to the right, and the direct sound duration to the left to simulate the long ringing tones that I get out of my piano. I also played with each of the overtones, seeing if I could get them to better duplicate the sound that I heard out of the acoustic piano. It is still not perfect, and my acoustic piano has a bit of a nasal-ness to it, coming on about half a second after the key is struck. I have not figured out whether it is an overtone correction or some other correction to make in the preset to duplicate this tendency a little better. There is definitely room for improvement here.

Hammer tone and hardness – I made various corrections to the hammer tone and the three hammer hardness settings, but I'm not quite happy with them. Unfortunately, the hammer hardness is adjusted stepwise rather than on a continuum. It would be nice to have a little curve for hammer hardness similar to the velocity curve, rather than three separate sliders.

Damper settings – I had not thought about this before, but one of the things that makes the Pianoteq presets not sound like my real piano is that my real piano dampers do not do a great job, especially on the bass notes. Perhaps a grand piano, with gravity assisting rather than a spring, does a better job. In any case, a little bit of whacking on the keys in the lower tones while adjusting the damper settings, both position and duration, gave me a fairly precise fit. Also, adjusting for the last damper was easy as well.

Unisons and out-of-tune-ness – it's been about eight months since my piano was tuned, so adjusting the unison width to 2.0 was necessary to duplicate the out of tune imperfections that I hear on my own piano.

Velocity, volume, and dynamics – as I mentioned, my QRS PNOscan provides for somewhat soft keyboard, so I have a convex upwards velocity curve. Also, as I enjoy the resonant sounds that you get by holding some keys down softly and then playing other keys of the same tone but different pitch, I have added a small toe-area to my Pianoteq velocity curve so that pushing the key softly enough does not launch the hammers. As for volume, I set the volume level so pounding on my X-key produces the same volume as pounding on the piano. From here, I adjusted the dynamics so that I get about the same touch and feel for light and heavy keystrokes on the real thing and the simulated thing. I have noted that a lot of people's presets put dynamics at about 40 – if I did that here, then I could never play as softly on the X-key as I can on my own piano. Therefore, I tried 60 which was too high, and settled on 50, which was about right. I'm sure that this varies quite a bit depending on the slope of your velocity curve.

Sympathetic resonance – I ended up pushing it just a bit to the right, to match a little bit more richness that I hear out of my acoustic piano.

Noises – I considered moving the sustain pedal noise and the key release noise all the way to zero, since I am sitting at a real piano that has a real sustain pedal and real keys.  Instead, knowing that sometimes I play with this preset using the X key, I just left them where they were, as they are not too offensively loud.

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In any case, that's where I started, and that's where I ended up. The sun was high in the sky when I began, and it is long below the horizon at this point tonight.

- David

- David

Re: Step-by-step: Modifying a Preset to match a piano - Steinway B to F

Listening to it this morning while playing, I'm pretty happy with it above A3, but it's a bit dark and veiled below there.  I tried changing a few things, but haven't figured out how to just brighten or crisp the lower half of the register, without worsening the upper half.

- David

Re: Step-by-step: Modifying a Preset to match a piano - Steinway B to F

Wonderful. Congratulations!

Pianoteq 8 Pro Studio with Classical Guitar and Organteq 2

Re: Step-by-step: Modifying a Preset to match a piano - Steinway B to F

As I went off this morning, I was thinking to myself that Pianoteq is a lot like Photoshop – if you have an image as a starting point and in your mind the impression of what you would like your image to be, there are several paths you can take to get to that point. The difference between the paths depends on where you are starting from, how much difference you are trying to make, what other side goals you have in mind, how much trouble you want to spend achieving your result, and how much collateral damage you will accept in your pixels of the image. This is where I find that a lot of people get frustrated with Photoshop – they wish that the program had only one method for each possible editing result, thinking that it will be easier to learn that way. Having learned on the continuum, I am not sure if they are right or they are wrong, but I know that I get frustrated by programs that have only one set of tools – sometimes the hammer that they give you is just not correct for the combination or the nail and for the wood into which you want to drive the nail.  Just like I frequently purchase alternate tools at my local Harbor Freight, I frequently learn clever new tricks in Photoshop that are quicker, cleaner, or more elegant to achieve the same outcomes.

Pianoteq appears similar for sound editing.

So, knowing that I wanted to change the "snap" of the notes below midrange, I figured that one way to do it would be to go into the Note Editor and adjust the hardness of the hammers for these ranges. I have uploaded a new version of my preset file reflecting that. Additionally, I made a recording with my cell phone of alternately playing all the white keys from top-down. First, played softly on the acoustic piano followed by played softly with my Pianoteq preset (every once in a while you'll find that my index finger is not well calibrated, but then I adjust!). Following this, the same routine for mezzoforte beginning with the acoustic and following with Pianoteq. Lastly, forte.

Here is the location of the revised preset:

http://www.forum-pianoteq.com/file/dtw50u84

And here is a link to the audio file:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/xmmpc2fuclp0o...n.m4a?dl=0

There are a couple things that are curious to me – first of which is how wide the variations are that I had to make amongst the settings, especially in the mezzoforte range. If you look at my curves, you will see that they dip and climb like a roller coaster. While the changes between the midrange and the bass make sense because that's where the unisons change from three strings down to two strings down to one string, the more curious point is between the midrange and the treble where there is a particularly "hot" section that gets very soft below that (you will see that compensated by a dip below the line followed to the left by a very sharp curve upwards). The second curious thing is that increasing hammer hardness does not exactly replicate the type of tone that I hear on my piano with the notes that are "snappier." Increasing the hammer hardness tends to get a tinny, metallic sense, without "punch" once you get past a certain point, almost like the old-fashioned way to put thumbtacks into the hammers on an old Western saloon piano. Instead, these more aggressive notes on the piano have a more distinct tone, whether it is more volume, more or less overtones and undertones, or some other difference, I am not sure.  I am also not sure how to duplicate that increased "punch".

These experiments of trying to duplicate my piano have also given me an appreciation for how important the velocity curve is, and how huge the difference is in the apparent brightness versus softness of the piano depending upon the position and slope of the curve for velocity. I have two questions that maybe somebody can help me out on:

1) What characteristics are actually changing by increasing and decreasing the velocity curve? It is some form of timbre adjustment, but I am not sure what characteristics these adjustments contain.

2) With the three adjustments of hammer hardness (piano, mezzo, and forte), where are the cutoffs with respect to the piano through forte scale on the velocity curve, and do they represent hard steps from one to the other, or have some type of roll-off?

That's all for now, with plenty more tuning left for later.

– David

P.S.  ...I can't seem to get away and on to other 'Sunday afternoon tasks'!  I made a few more modifications, finding the Volume setting in the Note Editor, so I made some Volume curve changes, which allowed me to scale back a bit on the Hammer Hardness curves.  I erased the prior Preset posting from a few minutes ago, and replaced it with the modified one from 4:47 Eastern Time.  It's better, but still a ways to go, and I still do not know the answers to my two questions above about the velocity curves.

Last edited by dklein (28-08-2016 21:52)
- David

Re: Step-by-step: Modifying a Preset to match a piano - Steinway B to F

Hi dklein - Like your preset editing - actually, Pianoteq is to sampling what photoshop is to painting by numbers! 

I have posted a mp3 that is special to me and uses your preset - It reminds me of the big upright my mother had and played at home.  Just for fun, I am attaching a rendition of:  "River Stay Away From My Door".  My mother is the one playing.  She was 91 years old when she played this on a digital piano I had years ago (early Fatar action with double bubble key contacts).  I drag/dropped the midi file onto the PTQ GUI  with your preset.  I did take the liberty of EQing up the bass just a tad and a pinch of Legacy reverb and "narrowed" the unison width just a hair.  Those big old "tank-sized" uprights did have a little natural reverb to them.

You can pick up the mp3 on the "Other files" page and I will put it onto the "New Recordings Page".
Kudos,

Lanny

Re: Step-by-step: Modifying a Preset to match a piano - Steinway B to F

Thanks for the note and your contribution of your mom's piece. It's kind of funny that I have been reading Mark Twain's "Life on the Mississippi," and I'm at the point near the end of the book where he describes how families from the late 1800s would deal with the rising floodwaters of the Mississippi Valley. Twain makes the point that even when told to evacuate, they frequently did not, staying inside their houses, even living on elevated furniture in the form of countertops, loft beds, etc. as the water rose within their homes, ever hopeful that the river would recede beyond their door. Never having heard of the song that your mother is playing, Twain's stories seem not only plausible but frightening as the water literally starts lapping at your door.

I've made a few small changes to the presets since my last posting, but have not reposted. I am gradually reducing the hardness of some of the hammers that I had originally increased, and replacing it with increased volume curve input. Once I get it a little further, I will likely reposted again. Thanks again.

- David

Re: Step-by-step: Modifying a Preset to match a piano - Steinway B to F

ref: dklein

There is a paddle wheel tourist boat in Nashville, Tennessee, that has a steam calliope.  David Vankovering (inventor of the Mattel Optigon) was working with someone in Nashville to put a midi system on that calliope.  David has that midi file and intended to have that song playing on the river boat. I am not sure where that project ended up if at all.

Don't do too much to your upright preset.  As you go, rename the presets ... v1, v2, v3 etc. so you can go back if you need to.  You might mess everything up like I do!

Lanny

Re: Step-by-step: Modifying a Preset to match a piano - Steinway B to F

Thanks for your advice on the 'preservation of presets' tip - I will do so.

And funny that you mentioned a calliope, as a year ago I was on the American Queen steamboat from St. Paul to St. Louis.  What a fantastic calliope (you either love them or hate them), and what a great trip.  I tried to make a Calliope preset for Pianoteq, but was not doing a great job, so I put it aside.  Perhaps somewhat wants to contribute.  The preset, where I left it, is here:

http://www.forum-pianoteq.com/file/a5orb2l2

As far as MIDI, calliopes should be straightforward, as most are solenoid-controlled valves.  Here are some of the videos of the calliope from my trip on the American Queen last year:

https://goo.gl/photos/ui6J955mWeAgpw238

- David

Re: Step-by-step: Modifying a Preset to match a piano - Steinway B to F

dklein wrote:

Listening to it this morning while playing, I'm pretty happy with it above A3, but it's a bit dark and veiled below there.  I tried changing a few things, but haven't figured out how to just brighten or crisp the lower half of the register, without worsening the upper half.


Hallo David, and BRAVO! Your preset Model B Player = Steinway F is wonderful!

Can I suggest you a trick to define DIFFERENT Pianoteq presets for different ranges of the piano?
I work in Windows, if you work in OSX you can try MIDI Patchbay @ Not A Hat or MidiPipe instead of MidiOX.

The idea is: use a DAW to load two (or more) instances of Pianoteq with different presets, assign them to different channels and split your piano keyboard accordingly.

Here a couple of screenshots to clarify:

t1

t2


With this setup the notes before C# central are played by the first instance of Pianoteq, the other notes with the second one.
The two instances can have a different presets (or a different piano too!)...

I hope this is clear enough. Feel free to contact me (and please CONTACT me if you find a couple of presets that work !)

And a big THANK YOU for your preset!
Francesco

Last edited by ersteller (18-09-2016 09:53)

Re: Step-by-step: Modifying a Preset to match a piano - Steinway B to F

Hey, thanks for your comments and your post. Both my real Steinway and my simulated Steinway have taken plenty of hours that I could've otherwise spent learning to play piano, which I still am managing to fit in in between all the tinkering… Actually, I am doing more playing than tinkering at this point, and I can feel my skills improving, which is a nice sensation and a nice sound (at least to my ears – it's something like singing in the shower – you always sound better that way, rather than singing in public).

Yes, I have a copy of the Light Edition of Cubase that came with my Steinberg UR 22, and I certainly can load multiple Pianoteq VST's in Cubase to do just this. On the other hand, many of the changes that I am looking for can be done directly in Pianoteq via the note editor, especially things such as using spectral modifications, which another poster who goes by WDCO has demonstrated to me – he is a master at this, and I am at the very low end of that very steep learning curve. Ideally, all of the changes, be they volume, dynamics, hammer hardness, spectral modifications, etc. can and should all be made within Pianoteq using the note editor, to develop a preset that can be moved to other machines, other people, etc.

One of my frustrations is that my MIDI strip that I installed on the piano is quite "soft", so I always have to tweak my velocity curves. This would almost be as if I was working on a really bad video monitor, producing beautiful images with Photoshop or Light Room, but then when they are uploaded to the Internet, they look weird to everybody else, and vice versa. I have tried to work a curve for my piano's keyboard in the QRS Piano Scan software itself, but have not been able to come nearly as close with that as I can with the velocity curve adjustments in Pianoteq, as well as in native instrument's Kontakt.

Anyway, if you are new to this software, I hope you enjoy it. Some of my favorite presets are for the Bluethner.  Here is the link for one that I like a lot:

http://www.forum-pianoteq.com/file/5pvcro5w

By the way, even in the few weeks since I have made the preset for my Steinway upright, it has drifted even further out of tune. My real piano, last tuned in January, has gone from "flawed and beautiful" to "flawed and not-so beautiful"! (and it appears to be picking up speed in that direction)

I have been trying to contact my piano tuner, but he must be quite busy. In any case, I do not think that I will keep modifying my preset to match my worsening piano. I will hold off to publish the next version of this preset until I understand and have some more skills in changing spectral tones to clean up the lower half of the keyboard, where it sounds a bit muddy at this point.

Thanks again for your comments,

– David

- David

Re: Step-by-step: Modifying a Preset to match a piano - Steinway B to F

>Actually, I am doing more playing than tinkering at this point

Oh, you're ABSOLUTELY right! I too play now.

Thanks and have fun.
Francesco