PNOscan in TP40WOOD (Page 2 of 2)

http://www.forum-pianoteq.com/ddd90f215...96ff9c9bd8

above posted in files section just after midnight this morning and because if the time was to too tired to write and had to have shuteye!

So, here is an explanation of the mp3 demo

What you hear in the demo is not a calibrated full register. I merely calibrated 5 keys [C88 down to G#84 inclusive]. When these 5 keys were 'in' the global sound you hear resulted. I am sure this is to do with the computations within PNOscan. Just altering one key of the five I set 'in' would result in a global change in sound. I have set to do the other 83 keys, but am now taking my time as I am not in such a 'rush' to finish it. However, that said, I do wish to have it completed before Christmas [PT4?].

One question to all, as I seldom have access to physical pianos, I do not have very much current experience hearing the real thing. In fact, all my work with PianoTeq (and of course, the PNOscan transplant project) has been without live reference to a physical (real) piano. This being the case, and as a kind of reality check, may I ask you who are more used to hearing 'real' pianos whether or not the mp3 demoed Pleyel 'sounds' authentic as a result of my calibration and if not, why and in what way does it need to change?

Thank you for your input friends,

Kindest Regards,

Chris

https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?ci...5AAB24!687

The video linked to above demonstrates the testing of five cleaned and re-greased keys. I shall post another video of the cleaning, grease application etc. of the 6th key later. Early results are extremely promising. Lovely repetition abilty now. Obviously, when all 88 keys are cleaned, regreased and replaced, I shall have to 'bed them in' so to speak. I will keep y'all posted!

Warm Regards,

Chris

DON'T USE ELECTROLUBE'S SPECIAL PLASTICS GREASE AS A KEY/ACTION GREASE!!!

This grease is not appropriate for the lubrication of the action, keys or otherwise.

Thankfully, I hadn't done more than 5 keys in total so cleaning them up was no problem at all.

Now, some of you may already think I'm barking mad, but more may still come to this conclusion after reading the following...

I have applied goose fat to the 5 keys I cleaned from the Electrolube product. GOOSE FAT??? Yes, I know it sounds downright ridiculaous, moronic, stupid, crazy, etc,. but even some of the most rridiculous, moronic, stupid and crazy methods actually work better than what you might think!!! Goose fat, at first trial, appears to be one of those methods. Actually, it's not so crazt at all. I was recommended this by the local piano center. They use it to lube some piano parts. After applying a small film of goose fat to each contact point (hammer-to-key and keyfront-to-keyguide) I was able to rapidly repeat each of these 5 notes faster than I have ever done on any keyboard. Also the feel is very different to that of both the original grease, and the special plastics grease. It feels more definate and the feeling of the action (hammer etc.) is much more intimate.
I had never put goose fat on any board before tonight simply because I too thought it rather absurd! But taking a look at the jar I bought a few weeks back on the shelf earlier today, I noticed that even thought it is pretty cold here, the fat was liquified and not in any way congealed. I thought to myself, if this goosefat can stay liquified in cold temperatures and still provide the necessary glide needed for the keyfronts/hammer contact points, I'll give it a wirl! After all, cleaning 5 keys is not rocket science if for any reason there is a problem (which I certainly don't anticipate!). As I say, the feel is actually better than I've ever felt on a board. There is what I would call, a 'bare' feeling, and that without 'feelable' friction - the opposite of sponginess or sluggishness. Infact, the keys still lubed with the original sauce are much more 'spongy and sluggish'! I will report further on these 5 goose fattened keys in a few days unless necessity preempts sooner.

Joy to all,

Regards,

Chris

Here I am waiting, and waiting, and waiting some more for my NUMA Nero to be delivered to me (now it's sometime in December) and there you are spending more time with yours gutted wide open and NOT playing it!  DAMMIT!!  It's just not FAIR!

Curt

Thank you Glenn. I shall check these out

Best Regards,

Chris

I've ordered some graphite spray just in case!

Thanks Greg

Best Regards,

Chris

Chris,
It was Glenn that recommended the graphite, not me. (you've now given me this false credit twice, so I thought I'd better chime in ;^)

Greg.

Sorry Guys!

Sincerest apologies Greg and Glenn. Greg=skip, Glenn=NK right? I think I've got it now???

Kindest Regards,

Chris

Tea is a very good natural stainer. It has produced a lovely hue on the wood of the NUMA Nero keys. I shall post further pics in a few minutes...

Here's two better examples. The white balance of the camera was whiting out the ivory colour of the plastic (Kostil I think) key boddies and tops and as a consequence did not faithfully reprocuce the key-wood tea-stained effect. These are better, but they are even more cream-carrot-cake-like in the flesh!

Regards,

Chris

I have Studiologic Numa White. I have problem with one black key on the keyboard. Аfter a time (about 3 month) the black key began make noise. It's look like click of computer mouse. Just noise, nothing more... but this noise make me angry 

I have not guarantee from a shop where I bought Numa. Can I fix this problem by myself?

Someone demounted the Studiologic Numa White for cleaning, fixing some problems, etc ?...

I need your help.. Thank you!

(I'm sorry about my English. It's not my native language.)

http://www.forum-pianoteq.com/uploads.p...t_demo.mp3

Chris (and others) -

I am new to pianos, new to Pianoteq, and less than two months into my experience with my QRS PNOScan Sensor Rail installed into my 1885 Steinway F upright (along with the QRS Mute/Stop Rail).  I must say that what you guys had been talking about through the nuances of this 5-year-old thread have escaped me.  I have only gone through the QRS calibration routine of playing each key from bass to treble until I heard noise for each, calibrated the pedals which only gives "BangBang" on/off values (and have not figured out how to 'write' with WinNessie to the TUBS unit to change my pedals to be continuous), and have employed a 'leveling-off' Velocity Curve that is nearly linear from 0,0 to about 70,66 and then curves reaches a nearly flat asymptote at about 127,80 with Dynamics set to about 66 (I am out of town and away from my 'rig' to check it) - these were the values that gave me the closest emulation of this piano played acoustically, as its dynamics are limited above a mf keystrike, and ff isn't really much different than f.  On the other hand, with the mute rail in place and with sound produced via Pianoteq, a 'straight-line' velocity curve in Pianoteq causes subtle changes above mf to sound like inadvertent hammering of the keys.

Some questions:

1)  Is the sensitivity of the QRS rail and my keyboard above mf due to the basics of the simple 'key adjust' QRS calibration settings?

2)  If so, then what guidelines do I use in WinNessie to calibrate more correctly? (your posts were a bit cryptic to read)

3)  Does the QRS rail detect key position, key velocity, or both?

4)  What is the difference between the QRS lasers looking at the keybottoms, as compared to keyboards with 'double sensor' or 'triple sensor' implementations?

I am extremely impressed at the 'touch' that the QRS rail allows with my piano, and have been tweaking various velocity, dynamics, microphone/binaural settings, preamp volume, and speaker positions to see how close that I can get to fooling myself so that when sitting at the keyboard I can't tell whether I've left the piano playing as acoustic versus Pianoteq.  It's coming along, and I have fooled various non-serious musicians thus far.