I guess 4 years isn`t too bad for a dp action, you know.  But i wouldn`t like to sell something which would disappoint the buyer . . .as for GHS, you can play great trills on it.

Everybody needs to know that!

I decided to halt the key bushing procedure(s) and do some experimentation. I began looking at the key throw distance differences between blacks and whites. I then decided to equalise them which involves increasing the height of the blacks at the balance rail using shim washers (plastic ring binder page hole reinfocers in this case) and adjusting the capstan accordingly to the point that when key travels from at rest point to bottom out point, the hammer travels from at rest point on pad atop key to 'string' (felt).

I have nearly finished this process (from bass to key 69) and am blown away by the difference this adjustment has made to the playability of the VPC1. I showed my wife this morning and she was gobsmacked (a term we use in the UK to describe astonishment and surprise). I have been playing the instrument a lot today and am just revelling in the feel of it. It helps having Modartts new Piano Room 1 reverb which adds so much to the delight of playing the Bluthner Concert Recording AB preset now.

Consequently, I'd like to set the record straight and say quite catagorically that the VPC1 - properly regulated - has to be one of the best (if not, the best) piano controllers ever produced - period. I'd love to be able to sit all forum members and Pianoteq users in front of one and allow you to experience the authenticity of this fine work of craftsmanship. It certainly blows the GHS out of the water and some.

I think the next best thing might be a video or videos, maybe one showing the technique of raising the blacks (and whites actually, though to a lesser degree) and another to demonstrate the sound of Pianoteq now achievable. Needless to say, I'm not going to continue with bushing replacement and shall probably just plug the ones already done with 'plastic wood', redrill mortises and balance holes and rebush with bushing cloth. I'll keep you all posted anyhow.

Don't part with your VPC1.

Kindest Regards,

Chris

Well now!  We all know one thing for sure.

The keybed of a VPC1 lasts for only 4 years before needing refurbishing!  Perhaps only two if you`re into rocking it . . .

Yes, I think I`d prefer Yamaha`s GHS as well.  Or I could get a VPC1 and sell it after a couple o` years.  The same will apply to the other Kawais employing this and the other solid wood action?

Now that`s interesting, Kawai start to sell VPC in 2013 and now is 2016. I dont know if you have it or even play on VPC, but do you have the magic ball or what when you know exactly when it start to die ? Go back to clunky GHS key action, it will last forever.

The keybed of a VPC1 lasts for only 4 years before needing refurbishing!  Perhaps only two if you`re into rocking it . . .

Yes, I think I`d prefer Yamaha`s GHS as well.  Or I could get a VPC1 and sell it after a couple o` years.  The same will apply to the other Kawais employing this and the other solid wood action?

Bit stop/start at the moment. Have had to rethink key bushings. Have discovered a better plan. I use card with Teflon tape stuck on and glue into mortise (pictures to follow). Works better than solid Teflon/Drelin and doesn't click like the latter does if the hole size isn't absolutely perfect.

More soon,

Kindest Regards,

Chris

p.s. CONGRATULATIONS MODARTT for the GROTRIAN - BRAVO

Previous post getting a bit long...

https://www.dropbox.com/s/y6s00dqax0ows....jpeg?dl=0
This image is to give some idea of what the keys could look like after Delrin is inserted at the balance mortise. Instead of decorative veneer which I may use later on in the project, I have demoed with brown paper adhesive tape. As you can see, there would be no indication of any kind of bushing being present and I personally like that. Of course it's a matter of personal taste in the end. However I think it looks better without staples on the top!!!

Kindest Regards,

Chris

Thank you for the info re harpsichord quills. I had no idea that Delrin was/is used in the manufacture of the harpsichord. I also found this
http://www.dupont.com/products-and-serv...omopolymer
It is very strong stuff and looks on paper to be a better option for my VPC1's friction points, i.e. balance hole, balance mortise, and key front mortise, especially as it is very low friction. I personally think that solid Teflon will be too soft for my purposes seeing that all (friction) points of use will be against metal.

As you have informed me regarding Delrin and it's use in harpsichord manufacture, Teflon has also been used - in piano manufacture of instruments destined for hot and humid climates. I have seen inside these Teflon daubed and bushed actions whilst training as a piano technician years ago. They have a bad reputation!

I shall check the Internet for info on these Teflon actions and post my findings shortly,

Kindest Regards,

Chris

EDIT

Teflon in Steinway pianos

https://youtu.be/Fe90N7emirQ

And Delrin in harpsichords

http://picclick.co.uk/Harpsichord-Jack-...78377.html

Teflon before I drilled and stapled
https://www.dropbox.com/s/dzsnahj5jzs3j...1.jpg?dl=0

This is very promising info...
http://www.davidboyce.co.uk/lindner-pianos.phpp

Mr James McCabe of New Bruswick and Costa Rica has been in touch, and relays this interesting information. Mr McCabe was involved in the piano trade for years and I reproduce his comments with his gracious permission:

"I met Mr. Rippen at his factory in EDE Holland in the late sixties and later toured the Lindner factory in Shannon.

Mr Rippen told me at that time about the huge number of problems with the plastic action parts which were breaking all over the world. Probably they used styrene in the first action parts. Pratt Reid in the USA also made some actions with styrene flanges with the same problems of becoming brittle with ageing.

Mr Rippen told me that he has switched plastics to an acetal resin (Delrin from Dupont) to correct this major flaw. The centre pins had to be specially made with a closer diameter tolerance than the standard centre pins for cloth bushings which are more forgiving.

Probably the Lindner you found in perfect shape was one of the later models with the delrin butts and flanges.

Alfred Knight tried rather unsuccessfully to use nylon jacks in his upright models.The problem that arose with the  nylon (unlike Delrin) is that it is moisture absorbent and swells. Alfred then tried the nylon impregnated with graphite and the jacks were still getting stiff in moist conditions, so in the end he had to put standard cloth bushings in the nylon jacks  which rather defeated the whole purpose".

It's Delrin Rod not Drilon - my mistake

Kindest Regards all,

Chris

Images show work on the balance hole and mortice of key 49 of the Kawai VPC1

Inserted instead of the original red bushing cloth is solid Teflon (PTFE)

Wood has been stabilized both before and after with CA glue

Mini staples then inserted to prevent Teflon from slippage

Last picture shows fawn box cloth impregnated with Teflon powder

Have ordered Drilon for balance hole. This should be more hard wearing
than Teflon but just as effective in terms of reducing friction. I may yet use
Drilon in the mortice also - just depends on how the Teflon performs when
tested

Kindest Regards

Chris

I hadn't realised but the gradation of the hammers of the VPC1 is linear. Also the hammer height varies linearly which means the treble throw is greater than that of the bass when the hammers sit on the key-top hammer rest pads. Therefore, I wish to replace these hammer rest pads with a suitable linearly graduated substitute. Any tips would be hugely welcome,

I also found a better way to regulate the capstan/hammer height which involves the hammers sitting on the pads mentioned above - this being the reason I wish to replace them (the pads) with a linear graduated alternative.

Kindest Regards,

Chris

EDIT:

Upon further thought and study, I now realise that the best way to regulate the hammer height is as I'd previously concluded - close to the 'string' and at the point where the hammer ceases to blubber. After having upgraded capstan box cloth, reamed balance holes, Teflon powdered all friction points including balance hole, and cleaning hammer pivot of original grease and replacing with silicone (plumbers) grease, I regulated a number of keys - the result of which is an extremely consistent velocity response. However, I have had to be as extremely accurate with my regulation because of the accuracy of Kawai's velocity sensors. In short, very pleased!

Kindest Regards,

Chris

Have found a fantastic way to regulate the capstans to the correct height... I found the best way is to lowe the hammers, then bring them up to the point where they cannot be made to blubber against the 'string', in other words, lower the hammer so that on certain low velocities it produces 2 notes as the hammer bounces (blubbers) back and forth against the sensors. Then raise the hammer up until it becomes impossible to make it blubber/produce 2 notes. I will do my best to get some pictures sorted and maybe videos?

All the best,

Kindest Regards,

Chris

Does the action on the Kawai MP11 have similar problems?

They are fine keyboards - I'm just very fussy!!!

Kindest Regards,

Chris