Nick
]]>Nick
]]>I have opened a recently purchased F-30 pedal and it seems to me that this new unit now has a different design around its potentiometer. I don't seem to be finding any "black cube with two surfaces sliding against each other" in it. I thought maybe I would share an image of it here to help those who want to try this solution in the future:
https://i.postimg.cc/5y69YL9N/IMG-2446.jpgI oiled some parts anyway and the "fluttering" issue has not been resolved.
I own 3 of these pedal assemblies...all 3 had issues right away. Carefully place a drop of WD40 into the potentiometer helps a lot. You also have to disassemble the gears and recalibrate the entire mechanism. It's a shame Kawai doesn't force Fatar to make a higher quality pedal...Kawai just points at Fatar and they do nothing about it.
]]>I oiled some parts anyway and the "fluttering" issue has not been resolved.
]]>Follow the above disassembly instructions then remove the pedal retaining bar (4 screws). This now allows each of the pedals to be removed (2 screws on each). Careful the 3 springs don't disappear under the sofa. It's now easy to see what's going on. The rods are a really tight fit in the holes in the end of the pedal and completely unlubricated. It's the cause of the jittering AND the squeaking. I pushed the rods out and applied some teflon grease to each of them (from a bike shop). It's fairly clean stuff and really stays put. When you put it all back together make sure the sustain pedal aligns properly with the gears otherwise it can make a nasty mechanical noise. I kept the thing plugged into the VPC all the time so I could monitor the data stream in Logic. Once you're sure it's working reliably put the pedal assembly back in the case. Voila!
]]>http://joflaherty.org/HallEffectSustain...%20mod.pdf
Greetings,
Geert
]]>now I get better pictures to do it
Thank you very much for the replies and explanation
]]>Geert, above, explained it probably better than I can. He's right about the black bar. You can feel the 4 plastic squares on the front of the unit. Although they don't seem to be connected to the bar, they are. When I opened it, I tried to be very gentle with it. However, I found no easy way to get the bar out. I ended up prying it with a screwdriver from the back side (the side furthest from the pedals). I had to actually bend the outer casing to get under the bar. I was careful not to bend it too much, but I did have to bend it, because I couldn't find any other way to get the screwdriver underneath the black plastic bar. Bend the casing enough to get under the bar with a flat screwdriver, but don't bend it too much. That's my best advice. It kind of snaps in, you know? Like I said, after you get the bar out, everything pretty much comes out easily. Put a drop of WD-40 on the potentiometer, and you'll be good to go.
By the way, it's been almost a year since I did it, and I have had no problems with the pedal unit since then.
Let me know what happens. Good luck. I think you'll get it.
]]>Is this enough info?? The plasitc pots have sometimes over 1.000.000 turns lifetime, while the carbon....
Greetings,
( placing the images is too difficult; I dont like this....!! sorry for you.
Geert
]]>Thank you so much
Best regards
Geon
I tried your solution and at least the pedal has stopped producing random pedal release noises early in its travel. The sustain still starts responding quite late -- not really until it's pressed half-way down. Perhaps this is an issue that can be addressed with the calibration tool recommended by James. I'll look into it.
Thanks for your help!
Jan
]]>If you are experiencing issues with the F-30 pedal unit included with the VPC1, please contact the Kawai distributor in your country and request the VPC pedal calibration tool.
Kind regards,
James
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