Hi Chris, thanks for your reply. Am I correct in gathering that you haven't had an overall good experience with this keybed?

Yes Mike, you are correct.

sigasa wrote:

Contrary to the standard blurb on many a digital keyboard info website, ley alone that of many a manufacturer, it is a fact that digital pianos do in fact require periodic servicing whether that be regulating, cleaning or repairing etc.. The TP40WOOD keybed action is no different. I wish to document the process of honing/regulating this action for the purpose of instructing others who wish to do the same and could do with the help../

Hi everybody, and pardon me for resurrecting this topic. I am going to receive soon a Studiologic SL88 Grand with the TP40/WOOD keybed and I wanted to document myself about how to maintain it. I found this topic of great interest, but unfortunately the videos and photos that accompanied it are gone. I see that Chris (sigasa) is still an active user, I am curious whether you still own this keybed and maybe the videos/photos you posted here? And it case you still have the Fatar, have you been able to service it successfully during all these years? I am very curious.
Kind regards,
Mike

Hi Mike,

I no longer have the NUMA NERO. I found it to be a challenge to say the least. I no longer have the pictures either. The guy at FLK Lachnit may be able to help you. He regulates the Fatar TP40 WOOD.

Warmest regards,

Chris

Contrary to the standard blurb on many a digital keyboard info website, ley alone that of many a manufacturer, it is a fact that digital pianos do in fact require periodic servicing whether that be regulating, cleaning or repairing etc.. The TP40WOOD keybed action is no different. I wish to document the process of honing/regulating this action for the purpose of instructing others who wish to do the same and could do with the help../

Hi everybody, and pardon me for resurrecting this topic. I am going to receive soon a Studiologic SL88 Grand with the TP40/WOOD keybed and I wanted to document myself about how to maintain it. I found this topic of great interest, but unfortunately the videos and photos that accompanied it are gone. I see that Chris (sigasa) is still an active user, I am curious whether you still own this keybed and maybe the videos/photos you posted here? And it case you still have the Fatar, have you been able to service it successfully during all these years? I am very curious.
Kind regards,
Mike

Regards,

Chris

above, jig prepared for black-acrylicing the sides of the triggers.

keys being prepared for application of acrylic

I prefer the above spongue applied acrylic finish as opposed to using a brush.

above and below, keys being polished after application of acrylic

below, PNOscan removed while regulating and finishing process completed

Please explain the reasons for the latest photos of keys.

Regards Robin

PS Am I correct in assuming that the photo of the rubber pads is the NUMA base.  On my TP40 Wood keybed there are two rows of tapped holes on the underside of the keybed. 

Does the NUMA case not utilise the back screw positions?

the pics are just a pictorial progress update as per my norm. The key shown has been alcohol bathed, tea-stained [deliberately], degreased, cleaned, polished, and titanium white acrylic applied via sponge to the top of the optical trigger. More pics soon.

Yes, it is the NUMA Nero base and yes, the Nero base does utilise the back screw positions, only without any rubber cushioning.

Best Regards,

Chris

However in the meantime I will talk to Gelmac and other compnies to see if there are better alternatives to the rubber/felt anti-vibration strips provided by Fatar.

Both the Key on and Key off noise may be reduced with an alternative material. In this way the source of the problem may be tackled.

I have tried the tapping experiments in a similar way to your "knee" method and it still is fairly loud in my opinion.

Please explain the reasons for the latest photos of keys.

Regards Robin

PS Am I correct in assuming that the photo of the rubber pads is the NUMA base.  On my TP40 Wood keybed there are two rows of tapped holes on the underside of the keybed. 

Does the NUMA case not utilise the back screw positions?

a little spongued-on opaque acrylic medium!

sorry for the delay. Here it is...

There are 8 ribbed rubber tabs lining the underside of the front rail of the keybed.

When the keybed is housed in it's shell, it is a lot noisier than the quietest demo six posts above.

Keep up the great work,

Warm Regards,

Chris

upweight of A1 approx 55 grams

Robin, photo to be taken tomorrow morning of rubber mounts in base [have set alarm!]

Regards to all,

Chris

My goodness, you've been busy! Extremely impressive - well done!!!

Thank you for reminding me to take a picture of the Nero base mounts! I'll go do in a minute.

Test thoroughly before drilling holes in that lovely beech!!!

https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?ci...5AAB24!699

short VIDEO showing down weight of A1 on my TP40WOOD. More to follow...

Back soon,

Kind Regards,

Chris

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You may be able to see the wooden ledge on the photo with the keybed removed.  I could try removing this and replacing it with shock absorbing mounts at each back mounting screw position.  Stiff(ish) foam strip in place of the wooden batten might also work.

The front mounting ledge of the keybed mounts directly to the mdf base.  This may need a metal plate for each screw position mounted underneath the base. This could be centrally drilled and a shock mounting fitted.

I have tried a similar method to your using two padded pillow cases.  However the pillow case interferes with the hammers.  I will try out few more ideas over the weekend.

I will also investigate the data on shock mounts that you sent to me.

How many mounting tabs are use withe th NUMA?

Thanks again.

Robin