Agreed that the Pnoscan is way too expensive for most digital keyboards. If you're already spending several $10k's or more on an acoustic instrument, it would not be that unreasonable to pay $2k for MIDI conversion, but for MIDI keyboards, just spend the extra money on the best action you can get.

I guess the logic of a $2,000 upgrade to a $2100 instrument eludes me, given that the instrument already transmits MIDI.
Is the midi stream from pnoscan REALLY that much "better"(in whatever units of measure are appropriate) ?

BTW, $4100 would/could be a decent down payment on a 6ft 2in Story & Clark living room grand ($25,xxx list price) with
pnomation already built in

I am new to pianos, new to Pianoteq, and less than two months into my experience with my QRS PNOScan Sensor Rail installed into my 1885 Steinway F upright (along with the QRS Mute/Stop Rail).  I must say that what you guys had been talking about through the nuances of this 5-year-old thread have escaped me.  I have only gone through the QRS calibration routine of playing each key from bass to treble until I heard noise for each, calibrated the pedals which only gives "BangBang" on/off values (and have not figured out how to 'write' with WinNessie to the TUBS unit to change my pedals to be continuous), and have employed a 'leveling-off' Velocity Curve that is nearly linear from 0,0 to about 70,66 and then curves reaches a nearly flat asymptote at about 127,80 with Dynamics set to about 66 (I am out of town and away from my 'rig' to check it) - these were the values that gave me the closest emulation of this piano played acoustically, as its dynamics are limited above a mf keystrike, and ff isn't really much different than f.  On the other hand, with the mute rail in place and with sound produced via Pianoteq, a 'straight-line' velocity curve in Pianoteq causes subtle changes above mf to sound like inadvertent hammering of the keys.

Some questions:

1)  Is the sensitivity of the QRS rail and my keyboard above mf due to the basics of the simple 'key adjust' QRS calibration settings?

2)  If so, then what guidelines do I use in WinNessie to calibrate more correctly? (your posts were a bit cryptic to read)

3)  Does the QRS rail detect key position, key velocity, or both?

4)  What is the difference between the QRS lasers looking at the keybottoms, as compared to keyboards with 'double sensor' or 'triple sensor' implementations?

I am extremely impressed at the 'touch' that the QRS rail allows with my piano, and have been tweaking various velocity, dynamics, microphone/binaural settings, preamp volume, and speaker positions to see how close that I can get to fooling myself so that when sitting at the keyboard I can't tell whether I've left the piano playing as acoustic versus Pianoteq.  It's coming along, and I have fooled various non-serious musicians thus far.

FINALLY! PianoTeq as it was and is designed to sound and play.

After a period of illness which I am still recovering from, with intermittent work on the TP40WOOD / PNOscan project, I have finally finished the project. I mean to shoot informative videos, as I stated a while back, soon.

And for those wondering, 33 is the number that made all the difference to the setup! More on this soon.

_____________________________________________________________________

the images are as follows...

1. relocated strip
2. [notebook]
3. beginning of compensation increment collation

an mp3 demo/test to follow (A1, B1 and C1)

A mathematical method of working, as of today, has turned out much more fruitful in terms of ease and acuracy. I hope to produce a much better demo tomorrow/thursday.

Regards,

Chris

I have not guarantee from a shop where I bought Numa. Can I fix this problem by myself?

Someone demounted the Studiologic Numa White for cleaning, fixing some problems, etc ?...

I need your help.. Thank you!

(I'm sorry about my English. It's not my native language.)

Here's two better examples. The white balance of the camera was whiting out the ivory colour of the plastic (Kostil I think) key boddies and tops and as a consequence did not faithfully reprocuce the key-wood tea-stained effect. These are better, but they are even more cream-carrot-cake-like in the flesh!

Regards,

Chris

Sincerest apologies Greg and Glenn. Greg=skip, Glenn=NK right? I think I've got it now???

Kindest Regards,

Chris

Chris,
It was Glenn that recommended the graphite, not me. (you've now given me this false credit twice, so I thought I'd better chime in ;^)

Greg.

I'm not keeping score Greg.

The silicone may even be better, and if it sprays onto anything else it won't show as it has no colour.  I used the graphite on my camera filters to keep them from sticking, but then some of it got on the filter and required cleaning.

Glenn

Greg.